Dili (Portuguese: Díli) is the capital and largest city of Timor-Leste. It lies on the northern coast of the island of Timor, in a small area of flat land hemmed in by mountains. The climate is tropical with distinct wet and dry seasons.
The city has served as the economic hub and chief port of what is now Timor-Leste since its designation as the capital of Portuguese Timor in 1769. It also serves as the capital of the Dili Municipality, which includes some rural subdivisions in addition to the urban ones that make up the city itself. Dili's growing population is relatively youthful, being mostly of working age. The local language is Tetum; however, residents include many internal migrants from other areas of the country.
The initial settlement was situated in what is now the old quarter in the eastern side of the city. Centuries of Portuguese rule were interrupted in World War II, when Dili became the site of a battle between Allied and Japanese forces. The damaged city returned to Portuguese control following the war. In 1975, a civil war between Timorese political parties broke out, leading to a declaration of independence and a subsequent invasion by Indonesia. Under Indonesian rule infrastructure in the city was developed, with landmarks such as the Immaculate Conception Cathedral and Cristo Rei of Dili being built during this time. The city expanded as its population grew to over 100,000 people.
Resistance to Indonesian rule faced violent repression, and a massacre in Dili led to international pressure culminating in an independence referendum. Following a vote for independence violence erupted in the city, destroying huge amounts of its infrastructure and leading to an exodus of refugees. A period of United Nations rule followed, during which international agencies began the reconstruction of the city. Dili became the capital of an independent Timor-Leste in 2002. A period of violence in 2006 saw another period of infrastructure damage and population displacement. In 2009, the government launched the City of Peace campaign to reduce tensions. As the population has continued to grow and the original site of the city has filled up, the urban area has expanded into coastal areas to the east and west of the main city.
Infrastructure in Dili continues to be developed; the city was the first location in Timor-Leste to see 24 hours of electricity, although its water infrastructure remains relatively limited. Levels of education are higher than the national average, and the country's universities are located in the city. An international port and airport lie within the city limits. Most economic activity comes from the tertiary sector and public employment. To further build the economy, the Timorese government has been developing the tourism-based potential of the city, focusing on cultural, environmental, and historical attractions.
History
Initial Portuguese settlement
Dili has played a central role in the history of Timor-Leste. However, early records about Timor, especially before the 1700s, are sparse. The tumultuous history of the city has resulted in a great deal of information being lost; archives in the city were destroyed in 1779, 1890, 1975, and 1999.
The island of Timor was possibly known as a source for sandalwood in the 15th century. The first recorded Portuguese voyage to the island from Portuguese Malacca occurred in 1516, returning with sandalwood. In 1521, sandalwood was left out of a list of products under royal monopoly, leaving most trade with Timor in the hands of private enterprises. Portuguese and Spanish interest in the island increased in the 1520s, with regular trade established by 1524. In the late 1500s, administrative officials began to be appointed to nearby Solor with jurisdiction over that island and Timor, signifying increasing state interest in Portuguese activities there.
The Netherlands began to compete for control of the island in 1613, especially in the west. A rebellion in 1629 forced the Portuguese off the island for three years. In 1641, a number of kings in Timor converted to Catholicism while seeking Portuguese protection. This introduced a political dimension to Portuguese influence, which had previously been primarily economic. Timor became administratively separated from Solor in 1646, although the exact administrative structure is unknown. It received its first dedicated governor in 1702, who resided in Lifau. This reflected the growing importance of Timor compared to nearby Flores. 1749 saw Dutch military forces take control over large portions of the island, broadly reflecting current borders.
In 1769, as Lifau came under the increasing influence of powerful local families collectively known as the Topasses, the Portuguese governor António José Teles de Meneses moved the administration and 1,200 people east to establish a new capital. It was originally intended that the administration be set up at Vemasse further east, but perhaps because of the favourable geography, a settlement was established at Dili instead. This was at the time part of the Motael kingdom, whose leader was friendly with the Portuguese authorities. The governor occupied an existing fortified structure, and with the assistance of the Motael leader began to construct a new settlement. The area surrounding the settlement was wetlands fed by rivers from the mountains and proved conducive to rice cultivation. A wall was built to separate the coastal city from wetlands to its south. The initial settlement was divided between three populations, one mainly Portuguese, one of Mestiços and locals from other Portuguese colonies (which became Bidau), and one for troops from a kingdom thought to be in Flores.
From 1788 to 1790, a civil war broke out between the governor in Dili and an official based in Manatuto, which was resolved upon the arrival of a new governor. In response to Dutch provocations, a permanent military force was established in 1818. Some Europeans settled in Lahane to the south, beyond the wetland area. Significant construction was undertaken under governor José Maria Marques, who arrived in 1834 and rebuilt the settlement along a grid. This saw expansion along the coast, but also southwards as the wetlands between the original city and Lahane were channelised and drained. A road extended to Lahane and Dare. The rebuilding saw the settlement being centred on its port, with the immediate port area containing trade facilities, church buildings, military buildings, government buildings, the residence of the governor and his deputy, a residence for a representative of the Motael kingdom, and a residence for the Queen of Manatuto. Of these, only the church and the Finance Deputy's house used masonry. To the east of this core was Bidau and a Chinese settlement, to the west was the main settlement of the Motael kingdom.
In 1844 Timor, along with Macau and Solor, was removed from the jurisdiction of Portuguese India, with the three areas becoming a new Portuguese province. A few years later in 1850, Portuguese Timor was removed from the jurisdiction of the governor of Macau, before being returned to the jurisdiction of Portuguese India in 1856. When English naturalist and explorer Alfred Russel Wallace visited in the 1860s, he wrote that the governor's house was "merely a low whitewashed cottage", and that all other buildings appeared to be mud and thatch. At the time swamps and mudflats surrounded the town, which did not extend to the mountains surrounding it. More permanent buildings of one or two stories were constructed throughout the late 19th century. A new church building was built in 1877.
A revolt to the east led to the city being isolated in 1861; however, the revolt was defeated by the Portuguese and their Timorese allies. In 1863, Dili was declared a city (although the news may not have arrived to the city until the next year), and East Timor became directly subordinate to the Lisbon government. In 1866 the territory was again put under the jurisdiction of Macau. An 1887 mutiny in Dili led to the death of the governor at the time. The territory was separated from Macau for the last time in 1896, again coming directly under the jurisdiction of Lisbon, and becoming a full province in 1909. Another notable revolt took place in the years after the 1910 republican revolution in Portugal. The republican government downgraded the status of its overseas provinces to colonies. A civil government was established in 1913.
Permanent structures in Portuguese style continued to be constructed into the 20th century. A new town hall was built from 1912 to 1915. The main church was demolished in 1933, and a new cathedral opened in its place in 1937. (This cathedral was later destroyed by Allied bombing in the Second World War.) Four distinct residential districts developed around the city core. Bidau was the largest, and Benamauc joined it on the eastern side. Caicole developed to the south between the city and Lahane. Colmera developed as a commercial area to the west with a large number of Muslim traders. Motael continued to develop, becoming the site of the city's lighthouse. Motael Church began to be built in 1901. Inland to the southwest, a Chinese cemetery was established, and beyond that a military area known as Taibesse. Lahane also saw significant development in the early 20th century, with its east and west side separated by a river. As the administrative structures developed, Dili became part of the Dili municipality in 1940, the first municipal administration to be created. At the time the municipality was larger, including what is now the Aileu Municipality.
Destruction, reconstruction, and Indonesian rule
During World War II, Portugal and its colonies remained neutral, but the Allies saw East Timor as a potential target for Japanese invasion. Upon the outbreak of the Pacific War in 1941, Australian and Dutch troops were sent to Dili despite Portuguese objections. In response, the Japanese invaded Dili as part of a two-pronged invasion of Timor. The city had been mostly abandoned prior to the invasion, and allied forces retreated further into the island. The Japanese left the Portuguese governor nominally in position, but took over administration. Much of Dili was destroyed during the war, from the initial Japanese invasion and from later allied bombings. Japanese forces on the island of Timor surrendered to Australian forces at the end of the war. Following the surrender, an Australian official travelled to Dili where on 23 September 1945 he informed the Portuguese governor of the Japanese surrender.
Following the Second World War, Dili covered what today is the old core of the city, within the sucos of Acadiru Hun, Bemori, Bidau Lecidere, Caicoli, Colmera, Culu Hun, Gricenfor, Motael, and Santa Cruz. Portuguese Timor became a full part of Following the initial post-war reconstruction of Dili's immediately critical infrastructure, an urban plan was developed in 1951 covering urban layout, road development, zoning, and building regulations. The plan envisioned separate neighbourhoods for Europeans, mestiços, Chinese, Arabs, and Timorese, and assumed there would be further rural-urban migration. Both this plan and later revisions in 1968 and 1972 assumed that the Timorese population would live on the edges of the city yet work near the centre. This plan was not completed, and the city remained under-developed, with low density and where property outside of the central area was still built on with flimsy materials and used for subsistence cultivation. The second five-year development plan, which ran from 1959 to 1964, saw the reconstruction of the Port of Dili and a small amount of transport infrastructure.
A 1950 census found that the population of Dili was about 6,000 people, half 'civilised' (considered by Portuguese authorities to have sufficiently adopted Portuguese culture), including Mestiço, 'civilised' natives, Europeans, and other foreigners such as Goans and those from Portugal's African colonies. This was slightly over 1% of the total population of the colony. The 1960 census recorded the population of Dili to be about 7,000 people. By 1970, the urban population reached around 17,000. The city did not extend far beyond the area surrounding the port, and the population did not exceed 30,000 before 1975.
Portuguese Timor became a full part of Portugal in 1951, although despite being made citizens of Portugal this did not bring the locals any political power. Governance remained in the control of Lisbon. The Portuguese Overseas Organic Law of 1963 created the first Legislative Council of the territory, which was given some of the powers formerly held by the governor. It also theoretically extended voting rights to the 'uncivilised', although property and tax requirements meant most were still unable to vote.
The 1974 Carnation Revolution in Portugal created immediate change in East Timor, with new political parties forming with the goal of independence from Portugal. Relationships between these new parties was fractious. Some, particularly the Timorese Democratic Union (UDT), advocated union with Indonesia. On 11 August 1975, the UDT initiated a coup. UDT control was limited outside of Dili, and on 20 August the opposing Fretilin party began its attempt to seize the city. Some houses were set on fire to assist the defence; however, after some days Fretilin succeeded in taking control of the city. The last Portuguese governor fled Dili for Atauro Island on 26 August, as the civil war continued. On 28 November, Fretilin declared independence in a ceremony in Dili. On 7 December, Indonesia landed paratroopers in the city and amphibious forces to its west, as part of an invasion of East Timor, leading many to flee the city.